We landed in Jordan only yesterday, and at the end of Day 1 I feel like I have whirled through all of human history already! We drove to Jarash this morning, and nothing had prepared me for the size and extent of these Roman ruins, which exceeded those in Rome which we saw only 2 years or so ago. As you enter Jarash from one of the city gates, it does not look too big, but slowly emerges as the city unfolds before you. The first stop is the Zeus temple, high above on the left of the city, leading to a very large amphitheater with echo-chambers that resonate voice across the whole amphitheater. As you leave the Zeus temple area, you see more temples in the distance. There is the temple to Venus, and as you pass it there is also a Byzantine church to the left of that. While Jarash dates back to thousands of years B.C., it was destroyed by an earthquake in 749 A.D. so it is not surprising to find old Christian remnants also. As we continue on around the City, you see Hadrian’s gate in the distance and an old Roman style road, called cardio maximus connecting the multiple gates and leading back around into the largest Oval with an amazing colonnade surrounding it. Then you enter the temple to Venus with its own temple and structures, and a temple of Artemis as well. There is the amazing swinging pillar which shifts back and forth – a tourist guide put a spoon in a spot at the base of the pillar, and the spoon was moving up and down as the pillar swung! One cannot stop oohing and aahing as one walks this ancient City with so much to showcase. There are 2 more amphitheaters, although smaller than the one next to the Zeus temple. There are baths that we pass on the way with many stories as to how they were used. Standing one one of the high points of this City and looking at this ancient, silent grandeur, I was reminded how empires come and go leaving legacies and memories for us to wonder about the fascinating evolution of human civilizations. As we saw Syria and Israel in the distance at later points of the day, I tried to push the sadness in my heart out by reminding myself of the transience of suffering and the transience of joy, while enjoying the moments I was given to enjoy this with my twin daughters and my son-in-law.
From Jarash we went on to Ajnoun Castle, a tool used to take lands back from European crusaders at the end of the 13th century by Salahuddin and his nephew Usama. The castle is on a mountain top so high, it is hard to believe how it was even constructed, with enemy castles surrounding the areas in many directions. We climbed to the top of the mountain, and amazingly could see the Jordan Valley, Golan Heights and parts of Israel in the distance. The beautiful pine trees on the mountains in this area reminded us of North American countryside, and the many olive and fruit farms looked so neat dotting the mountainsides and valleys. Every once in a while, we would see Bedouin shepherds herding their sheep across the land. We saw camels, horses, sheep and lizards. Capping off our trip to the castle with a cup of mint tea – Bedouin style- was a wonderful break.
Finally, we continued on northward to the church of Elias, a prophet mentioned both in the Bible and the Quran- Mar Elias Perched high on a beautiful hill, we found remains of one of the largest Byzantine churches with mosaic floors, partially preserved. Sitting on top of the hill, we met some Jordanian students taking a break from their exams. They said they come here to relax and enjoy the peace, and Sheema had already noticed the deep spirituality of the place. Muslims and Christians both come here on holidays and put ribbons on a tree of hope. What a lovely note to end our Day 1 on!
As I reflected on the day, I appreciated the people of Jordan the most, from my ebullient, loving and most hospitable Jordanian aunt Ikram Amireh Aryne to every single person we met or talked to on the way – ever ready with a smile, ready to help in any way…this is the face of Jordan I will treasure forever.
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